I knew that my winter visit to Iceland will be very different from those weeks I spent there over the summer when the weather was so kind and the daylight was endless. I was told that the temperature won't be too cold in an around Reykjavik; just around zero degree and often there is not even snow but it can rain in December. The other thing Icelanders mentioned about the weather is the sudden change that is regular and it can happen in minutes. So after all, basically I was best prepared for 'it can be anything'. Secretly I was hoping for cold and snow, maybe that kind of fairytale wintery scene I remember from my childhood and teenage years in Hungary and maybe this idea of Iceland that is most associated with.
My outdoor plans were quite flexible and limited as I knew I will depend on the weather a lot and I will just make decisions about what to do on the day or maybe the day before. I knew I will be happy with anything; just being there makes me feel alive, breathing in the clear air and feeling the positive energies and relaxed atmosphere are some of the reasons I'm so deeply in love with this place.
So, here are a few things I was up to in my winter week...
--from the airport I had a transport to the Blue Lagoon and after the first shock about the crazy wind and really cold temperature that greeted me there, I spent hours swimming in the hot water. Completely different experience from my sunny, relaxing day spent there last summer. This time it was dark, almost empty, my head was freezing cold and the wind blew waves, snow and who knows what else into my frozen face...it was crazy but its craziness and the thought of that it is completely wrong made me laugh and I enjoyed it a lot! After a while I found the best places where the water was warmer and the wind not that strong...and I was floating and floating away for hours. It was a very strange experience and I felt completely alone in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by rocks and darkness. For a moment it came to my mind that I will be very ill and wouldn't be surprised if I even lost my hair after this hot/frosty bath but who cares...? My mum wouldn't approve this little strange bath for sure. It made me laugh.
--next day I was looking forward to seeing Mount Esja and the city in the winter light. I had to use the short period of daylight well.. Snow started falling as I was walking my usual miles and I was just happy as ever; being here again meant everything!
--One of my favourite things to do is finding new Icelandic bands and music so I couldn't miss hanging out in '12 Tónar' again with coffee and listening to CDs. I can spend hours like this, so that's what I did...and bought some real gems, including Samaris, Hjaltalín, Ylja, music by Bjöllukórinn & Tónstofu Valgerðar which is real loveliness and the soundtrack of Copenhagen Dreams by Jóhann Jóhannsson.
--I was also looking forward to going to the local swimming pool again. From my first day to the last I had the pleasure of swimming in the chloride free water and relax in the outside hot tub as long as I wished. There were days with gale storm, on another day heavy snowfall and once I was watching some pre New Years Eve firework from the hot tub. I also loved oh so loved listening to Icelandic people talking to each other while relaxing there and even though I still don't understand the language but just listening to it always gives me that fuzzy good feeling. Such a beautiful language...then when they talked to me I was again so happy because I adore the Icelandic - English accent. How much I miss these daily treats already!
--Horse riding in Mosfellsbær at the Laxnes Horse Farm. Crazy day and that was when the weather turned a little evil. It started well with riding around the snow covered mountains, crossing frozen streams, the snow started falling again and I couldn't stop smiling because it was so beautiful what I felt and saw around me. It was like a dream. Then half way through it turned not so pleasant with freezing, heavy rain and strong wind. Horses and people completely soaked and freezing it was necessary to find shelter in the farm barn where we were served hot soup and homemade bread...oh and warm heaters where we could relax after this another 'mums wouldn't approve' experience. My favourite part was when it was snowing and the horses got across the small ice covered rivers...and when the ice broke under the horses' steps..oh it was such adrenalin rush and it was fantastic! We were looked after so well by Póri, Heiða, their son and everyone who live and work there, caring for around 100 horses and of course the regular guests all year round. I also loved playing with and watching Kalli, who must be the luckiest little dog in the world. Póri told me stories about the farm and that the famous Icelandic, Nobel prize writer, Halldór Laxness lived on part of it. He told me about him and his books, especially recommended to read Independent People which describes the life and struggle of poor Icelandic farmers in the 20th Century.
--city walks / dark and light. A few pictures from my walks in the snowy and still Christmassy city with the most adorable houses and lovely light decorations. Most windows were decorated with fairy lights and I felt like I'm in a winter fairy tale. The only 6 hours daylight limited my photo taking chances but having long dark hours wasn't as bad as anticipated because of the wonderful atmosphere of this city has...in dark and in light.
So there was this wonderful day with horseriding and snow falling and hot tub and long wintery walk in the most peaceful place I ever want to be and I felt so happy and complete again. But when we are so well there is always something bound to happen, right...?
--that something was a stupid fall from the hostel stairs. After the shock of 'flying' and landing on my back...when I realised what's happened it freaked me out completely. What can possibly happen...I'm either lucky or really not lucky and it can become not only an end of holiday incident but a life changing event from the worst kinds. Due to the pain and worry, during the night I ended up at the A&E for a check up on nerves and spine...blah blah blah. Fortunately all were ok and despite the severe pain strangely and luckily enough, walking was the only pain free activity. At least my week was saved as I had planned lots of walking! Don't mention the other things...such as sleeping, travelling on coaches and plane on my way back to the UK which was agony, unable to do shoelace all the way, unable to lift anything, sit...oh man, I was looking forward to seeing a physio and sort this poorly back! I lived on pain killers and Ibuprofen, my hot water bottle became my best friend and my daily visits to the hot tub was always a good part of the day. The hot water relaxed my back and temporary eased the pain...and it was by doctor's recommendation...! I guess here they trust that hot tub can sort everything. How true!
The hospital garden that night. I remember feeling very lonely with that beautiful snowfall then.
--Because I could walk and wanted to walk I kept walking! A few difficult days came weather wise...gale storm, mild temperature and rain during the day, then the rain became snow, then the snow melted, then the temperature dropped to minuses and alongside with the gale storm they froze the pavements and roads. Ice every-freakin'-where!!! Walking on ice any-freakin'-where! I did that, just walked and walked...and kept falling. I fell two more times but I didn't give up...and after a while it was normal and fun. Kind of...I was worried about my back and generally but I couldn't just keep worrying. I have to admit there were days when I was a bit nervous about leaving the cosy hostel but I was more curious about what's out there...
--almost made it to Viðey Island. I'm not sure how I was able to walk from Reykjavik centre to Skarfabakki where the ferry departs to the island. It took me 2 hours to get there on the ice and snow. No one else walked there on that cold windy day. I enjoyed the hardship caused by the weather and the crazy conditions. Another one 'mums wouldn't approve' little event. I loved being alone with the ocean next to me, with the 'screaming' gale storm and seeing frozen foot steps...'someone was here before me', watching crows and hanging out on the frozen beach.
When I finally got to Skarfabakki not too much surprise I found a note about the ferry being cancelled due to severe weather conditions. So I ended up staring at Viðey Island from the not too far and was sitting on the empty wintery beach. I loved that day and I once again felt so completely happy, strong and vulnerable at the same time.
--New Years Eve started with a beautiful bonfire, a tasty meal in the city with my lovely company and room mate Suvi, and followed by hours long firework spread across the city. We watched it by the frozen lake (well they say pond but it is a lake for me). I loved the feel of the city immensely and even my fear of fireworks didn't stop me to enjoy every minute of this night...it was peaceful, atmospheric, happy and energetic at the same time...it was fun!
-- Peaceful New Years Day
I was happy to welcome the new year in the city of my dreams and it was so nice of the weather to finally behave that day! Everything was very quiet on 1 January. The ocean was as peaceful as it can be...I haven't seen it this quiet even summer, and the air was still and clear as ever, the wind stopped. Such a wonderful day to say hello to 2013 and also my temporary goodbyes to Reykjavik on my last full day in the city. I went on a long walk once again, sit by the frozen pond and watched people ice skating, laughed at kids playing with the leftover fireworks (by then I learnt that it is an absolutely normal scene...!) I also decided to come back later when it is dark and lit candles in different point of the city. It was a night I will never forget because everything felt perfect and complete. I left a candle in the snow by the pond and another one on the coast, where I usually looked at Mount Esja. When I later left and looked back from the far I saw a man standing by the candle on the coast. He stood there for a while and I was wondering if it made him as happy as I was. I loved the stillness and quietness of that day and evening and that I was so peaceful and positive about everything.
There are still lots of stories I could tell about each day...the stories and tales I heard about Christmas and the celebrations, the man who sit next to me and went missing from the coach the other night when we attempted to see the Northern Light, also that someone who was collapsed in the swimming pool surrounded by ambulance and I'm still wondering what happened to him...is he ok? The relaxed approach towards everything in Iceland which I love so much. I also liked the info about the fireworks. One of the reasons for using so many of them because buying them means donating money to the Icelandic Search and Rescue Service. They operate without government funds and relies on volunteers and public donations, such as the income from the firework. And the stories can go on an on...all in all another amazing week; this time wasn't as smooth and easy as during summer but I enjoyed going with the flow and accept happily what the winter Iceland offered me.
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